How Jazz, Flappers, European Émigrés, Booze and Cigarettes Transformed Design

Five-Piece Coffee and Tea Service, 1929. Gebelein Silversmiths (American, Boston, 1908–c. 1960). George Christian Gebelein (American, b. Germany, 1878–1945), designer. Silver, ebonized wood; tea kettle on stand with burner (Photography © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. All Rights Reserved)

Sky-scraper Tea Service, 1928; Designed by Louis W. Rice (American, b. Germany 1872–1933); Produced by Apollo Studios (New York, New York, USA); Silver-plated brass; Teapot (Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum)

Tourbillons Vase, 1926; Designed by Suzanne Lalique (French, 1892–1989); For René Lalique (French, 1860–1945); Pressed, carved, acid-etched and enameled glass (© Smithsonian Institution. Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum)

Muse with Violin Screen (detail), 1930. Rose Iron Works, Inc. (American, Cleveland, est. 1904). Paul Fehér (Hungarian, 1898–1990), designer. Wrought iron, brass; silver and gold plating (Howard Agriesti © Rose Iron Works Collections, LLC.)

Bracelet, 1925; Produced by Boucheron (Paris, France); Platinum, osmium, gold, enamel, diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds (Siegelson, New York)

Necklace, 1929; Produced by Van Cleef & Arpels (Paris, France); Platinum, carved rubies, diamonds (Siegelson, New York)

Skyscraper Bookcase Desk, c. 1928. Paul T. Frankl (American, b. Austria, 1886–1958). California redwood, black lacquer (Grand Rapids Art Museum)

Brooklyn Bridge, 1919–20; Joseph Stella (American, b. Italy 1877–1946); Oil on canvas (Yale University Art Gallery)

Egyptian Bracelet, ca. 1925; Produced by Lacloche Frères (Paris, France); Diamonds, turquoise, sapphires, mother-of-pearl, onyx, black pearls, smoky quartz, tourmaline, gold, platinum (Matt Flynn © Smithsonian Institution)

AD-65 Radio, designed 1932, manufactured 1934; Designed by Wells Wintemute Coates (Canadian, 1895–1958); Manufactured by E.K. Cole, Ltd. (England); Compression molded Bakelite, chromium-plated metal, woven textile (Matt Flynn © Smithsonian Institution)

Screen, ca. 1928; Designed by Donald Deskey (American, 1894–1989); Silver leaf, lacquered wood, cast metal (hinges) (Matt Flynn © Smithsonian Institution)

Poster, ITF Internationale tentoonstelling op filmgebied (International Film Exhibition), 1928; Designed by Piet Zwart (Dutch, 1885–1977); Letterpress on wove paper (Matt Flynn © Smithsonian Institution)

Delphos dress and jacket with box, 1939; Designed by Mariano Fortuny (Spanish, active Italy 1871–1949); Manufactured by Societa Anonima Fortuny (Venice, Italy); Dress: pleated silk; Jacket: stencil-printed silk velvet (Photo: Matt Flynn © Smithsonian Institution)

Daybed, 1933–1935; Designed by Frederick Kiesler (American, b. Austro-Hungarian Empire 1890–1965); Birch-faced plywood, tulip poplar, nickel-plated steel (Matt Flynn © Smithsonian Institution)

“The New Yorker” (Jazz) Punch Bowl, 1931; Designed by Viktor Schreckengost (American, 1906–2008); Manufactured by Cowan Pottery Studio (Rocky River, Ohio, USA); Glazed, molded earthenware (© Smithsonian Institution)

Doors for the Music Room of Mr. and Mrs. Solomon R. Guggenheim, 1925–26; Designed by Seraphin Soudbinine (French, b. Russia 1870–1944); Executed by Jean Dunand (French, b. Switzerland, 1877–1942); Made in Paris, France; Carved, joined, and lacquered wood, eggshell, mother-of-pearl, gold leaf, cast bronze (Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum)

Textile, Tissu Simultané no. 46 (Simultaneous Fabric no. 46), 1924; Designed by Sonia Delaunay (French b. Russia, 1885–1979); Printed silk (© Smithsonian Institution)

Purse, c. 1920–30. Van Cleef & Arpels (French, Paris, est. 1896). Gold, enamel, diamonds, sapphires, silk, cotton (The Cleveland Museum of Art)

Drawing, Study for Maximum Mass Permitted by the 1916 New York Zoning Law, Stage 4, 1922; Designed by Hugh Ferriss (American, 1889–1962); Black crayon, stumped, pen and black ink, brush and black wash, varnish on illustration board (Matt Flynn © Smithsonian Institution)

Drawing, Textile Design: Party Ashtray, 1930–31; Designed by Donald Deskey (American, 1894–1989); White, blue, and orange pastel on black wove paper (Matt Flynn © Smithsonian Institution)

Dressing Table and Bench, ca. 1929; After Léon Jallot (French, 1874–1967); Retailed by Lord & Taylor (New York, New York, USA); Lacquered joined wood, mirrored glass, metal; Dressing table (Matt Flynn © Smithsonian Institution)

Actaeon, 1925. Paul Manship (American, 1885–1966), Bronze (David Owsley Museum of Art, Frank C. Ball Collection)

Textile, Americana Print: Rhapsody, 1925; Designed by John Held Jr. (American, 1889–1958); Manufactured by Stehli Silk Corporation (New York, New York, USA); Silk, printed by engraved roller (Matt Flynn © Smithsonian Institution)

Mystery Clock with Single Axle, ca. 1921; Produced by Cartier (Paris, France); Owned by Anna (Mrs. Horace) Dodge (American, 1869–1970). Gold, platinum, ebonite, citrine, diamonds, enamel (Marian Gerard, Cartier Collection © Cartier)

Tutti Frutti Strap Bracelet, 1925; Produced by Cartier (Paris, France); Owned by Linda (Mrs. Cole) Porter (American, 1883‒1954); Platinum, diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, onyx, enamel (Nils Herrmann, Cartier Collection © Cartier)

Scarab Belt Buckle Brooch, 1926; Produced by Cartier (Paris, France); Gold, platinum, Egyptian blue faience, diamonds, sapphires, enamel (Marian Gerard, Cartier Collection © Cartier)



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